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FAQ

Do these mixes need to be combined with traditional soil before use?

Nope! These mixes are designed with the help of professional agronomists (soil scientists) to be used as-is to provide the structure, drainage, and aeration plants need.

Should I be fertilizing in Sol Soils potting mixes?

Yes! We designed our soils to have the structure, drainage (lower total water retention), oxygen flow (aerobic environment), and drought tolerant tendencies (using high quality soil conditioners that keep water from pooling, but available to the roots for longer periods between waterings) to increase the likelihood of your plant thriving. That being said, everyone has a different preferred fertilizing regimen and feeding regularly with the rest of your collection with products that provide both micro & macro (NPK) nutrients is your best bet for long-term success!

How should I water a chunky or gritty potting mix?

We recommend top watering deeply and relatively infrequently (no more often than weekly for most established plants). The top of the mix will appear dry well before the moisture is truly out of the core of the mix. Picking up the planter can be a good way to gauge if there's still plenty of moisture in the pot. Other thoughts: Bottom watering can be really useful for peat-based soils which can become hydrophobic. These soils do not have ingredients which lead to the hydrophobic, tight, hockey puck type result of many potting mixes when dry. Bottom watering in the same basin as other plants does increase the likelihood of passing potential pests/pathogens between plants more quickly. Also, keeping plants in high humidity indoors like glass cases without great airflow will increase the likelihood of
pests, disease, algae, and even mold. (Yuck.)

*Every person has different conditions in terms of sun exposure, light intensity, air flow, planter situation (please use a drainage hole!, deeper pots take longer to dry through, plastic/sealed ceramic pots hold moisture longer), higher humidity decreases evaporation from the soil, indoors vs. patio, how thirsty or vigorously growing that specific plant is, etc. For our own collection in a standard indoor setting with a few hours of direct sun exposure per day, we rarely water more than once every 2
weeks for leafy houseplants in our mixes (10-14 days is usually the technical direction). For succulents and cacti we have a system for increasing frequency during the warmer growing months and decreasing significantly when they're dormant in the winter

Root Rot Questions

What is root rot?

Root rot is a pathogen most commonly caused by a fungal disease, dense poor draining soils, or simply watering too frequently for a given plant over time, which prevents the roots from taking in the oxygen they need. The roots then start to turn dark and die off, which can eventually kill the plant. Allowing the soil to dry between watering sessions is necessary for many traditional houseplants, not just cacti/succulents!

Can I get root rot using Sol Soils?

Absolutely! Overwatering (watering too frequently) will put plants in any brand or style of potting mix at risk of rot. It can be hard to resist overwatering as we all want our plants to be as happy as possible, and moisture always seems like something they probably want. However, "deep and infrequent" is a good mantra to live by to keep your potted plant babies free of rot caused by overwatering in any soil. Keep in mind the following: Overfertilizing your plant can burn roots and also cause rot. Over-sizing the pot can lead to too much moisture hanging in the pot for too long, overwhelming the roots. The couple of weeks after a repotting, your plant is likely in shock, and will have a harder time fighting off disease or other attacks on the root system that might have come from a nursery or the prior medium it's coming out of. Finding products that aid in reducing plant stress can be a great option after repotting a new plant! And all of this sounds very scary, but plants are generally RESILIENT! The list above is more to give a checklist of things to do your best to avoid, but mistakes will most
certainly happen over time with enough plants. They are living things with their own strengths/weaknesses after all. Don't lose hope if you run into an issue, and always feel free to connect with us if you're running into issues in
our soil or even other types of mediums.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Directions for Use

  • Q: Do these mixes need to be combined with traditional soil before use?
  • A: Nope! These mixes are designed with the help of professional agronomists (soil scientists) to be used as-is to provide the structure, drainage, and aeration plants need.
  • Q: Should I be fertilizing in Sol Soils potting mixes?
  • A: Yes! We designed our soils to have the structure, drainage (lower total water retention), oxygen flow (aerobic environment), and drought tolerant tendencies (using high quality soil conditioners that keep water from pooling, but available to the roots for longer periods between waterings) to increase the likelihood of your plant thriving. That being said, everyone has a different preferred fertilizing regimen and feeding regularly with the rest of your collection with products that provide both micro & macro (NPK) nutrients is your best bet for long-term success!
  • Q: How should I water a chunky or gritty potting mix?
  • A: We recommend top watering deeply and relatively infrequently (no more often than weekly for most established plants). The top of the mix will appear dry well before the moisture is truly out of the core of the mix. Picking up the planter can be a good way to gauge if there's still plenty of moisture in the pot. Other thoughts: Bottom watering can be really useful for peat-based soils which can become hydrophobic. These soils do not have ingredients which lead to the hydrophobic, tight, hockey puck type result of many potting mixes when dry. Bottom watering in the same basin as other plants does increase the likelihood of passing potential pests/pathogens between plants more quickly. Also, keeping plants in high humidity indoors like glass cases without great air flow will increase the likelihood of pests, disease, algae, and even mold. (Yuck.)
*Every person has different conditions in terms of sun exposure, light intensity, air flow, planter situation (please use a drainage hole!, deeper pots take longer to dry through, plastic/sealed ceramic pots hold moisture longer), higher humidity decreases evaporation from the soil, indoors vs. patio, how thirsty or vigorously growing that specific plant is, etc. For our own collection in a standard indoor setting with a few hours of direct sun exposure per day, we rarely water more than once every 2 weeks for leafy houseplants in our mixes (10-14 days is usually the technical direction). For succulents and cacti we have a system for increasing frequency during the warmer growing months and decreasing significantly when they're dormant in the winter.

    Root Rot

    • Q: What is root rot?
    • A: Root rot is a pathogen most commonly caused by a fungal disease, dense poor draining soils, or simply watering too frequently for a given plant over time, which prevents the roots from taking in the oxygen they need. The roots then start to turn dark and die off, which can eventually kill the plant. Allowing the soil to dry between watering sessions is necessary for many traditional houseplants, not just cacti/succulents!
    • Q: Can I get root rot using Sol Soils?
    • A: Absolutely! Overwatering (watering too frequently) will put plants in any brand or style of potting mix at risk of rot. It can be hard to resist overwatering as we all want our plants to be as happy as possible, and moisture always seems like something they probably want. However, "deep and infrequent" is a good mantra to live by to keep your potted plant babies free of rot caused by overwatering in any soil. Keep in mind the following: Overfertilizing your plant can burn roots and also cause rot. Over-sizing the pot can lead to too much moisture hanging in the pot for too long, overwhelming the roots. The couple of weeks after a repotting, your plant is likely in shock, and will have a harder time fighting off disease or other attacks on the root system that might have come from a nursery or the prior medium it's coming out of. Finding products that aid in reducing plant stress can be a great option after repotting a new plant! And all of this sounds very scary, but plants are generally RESILIENT! The list above is more to give a checklist of things to do your best to avoid, but mistakes will most certainly happen over time with enough plants. They are living things with their own strengths/weaknesses after all. Don't lose hope if you run into an issue, and always feel free to connect with us if you're running into issues in our soil or even other types of mediums.

    Note: We love connecting with customers for any feedback you have on our products, packaging or directions either via live chat, email, or Instagram DM. Never hesitate to reach out if you have questions or are unsure of something in particular!

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